
Gammon glazed with honey
Ham is generally superb to cook and eat. Gammon can be a bit disappointing with its rougher texture and stronger taste. A few weeks ago a good friend gave us two small joints of gammon, bought from the back of a lorry at a Bank Holiday market. The first one was simmered very slowly in the slow cooker and Danny gave it the thumbs down.
“It tastes piggy.”
The dogs didn’t agree.
This weekend I spotted the other one, nestling in the freezer. Loathe to give the dogs another treat, I remembered Smart Wife’s deluxe budget dish.
“I’m going to cook the roast this week. It’s going to be a retro meal. Roast gammon with fresh pineapple.and a sweet mustard sauce.”
Best not to mention honey as D doesn’t like it in cooking.
Danny was delighted to be released to the Rat Room until he made the gammon connection.
“If it’s the other one from that lorry, I’d boil it. Roasting it would be a mistake.”
With one glance at my face and he was backtracking with deft Irish ease.
“I’m stepping on toes. I’m sure that you have a master plan.”
In fact I had no plan. Just a yearning for simple roast gammon and pineapple. I wanted the gammon texture that’s so perfectly balanced by the taste and crunch of the pineapple. Back in the old Chelsea days, Smart Wife had a great recipe that was cooked by me on high days and holidays.
The thirty year gap makes any recollection of the recipe a bit fuzzy. All I could remember was grasping a thick plastic encased pack of gammon and searching for a tin of pineapple rings in the local supermarket. Things have moved on, it had to be fresh pineapple now. But what about the method?
I poked about on the Internet for a while. Mustard and Demerara sugar seem to be the active ingredients for the final glaze and these rang a faint bell. Finally I decided to forget Danny’s apprehension and Smart Wife’s recipe in favour of playing with the ingredients and flavours.
I grabbed a small fresh pineapple from the supermarket shelf and when I got home, located the honey and star anise. I’d loved Nigel Slater’s sauce in his recipe for pork spare ribs. I also decided to add tamarind to the mix. Cheaper than oyster sauce and the other ingredients, tamarind has a complex depth of flavours and I reckoned would work well. Incidentally, if you can find tamarind in a block this is much cheaper than the paste and it’s easy to prepare.
If you have a small joint of cheap gammon, this recipe is a real winner. Danny guzzled as much as he could.
“The sauce is superb. Any ‘pigginess’ must be masked by the fresh pineapple. I can’t believe that this joint only cost £2.50. Can I have a final slice?”
Ideally, we’d all have the funds to buy the best gammon. On a slim budget, this would be a great dinner party recipe. Star anise and tamarind paste are key ingredients. Good honey adds a gentle softness to the sauce. Perhaps it’s all down to the type of honey, I used some delicate borage honey produced by a fellow beekeeper near Saffron Walden.
Honey glazed gammon baked with star anise, pinapple and tamarind recipe (for 4 people)
Ingredients:
Par boiling stage:
- 1 kilo joint of gammon
- 1 bay leaf
- 8 black peppercorns
Roasting stage:
- The par boiled gammon joint
- 2/3 star anise
- 1 tblsp of water
The glaze:
- 4 heaped dessert spoonfuls of honey
- 2 tsp of dry mustard powder
- 10-20 whole cloves
- 2 tsp of tamarind paste
- 4-6 slices of fresh pineapple peeled and cored
Method:
- Put the joint in a pan of cold water, add a bay leaf and some peppercorns. Bring this slowly to the boil and simmer for half an hour. Meanwhile preheat your oven to 180c (160c fan).
- Remove the joint and retain the stock (great for lentil or bean soup). Put a large piece of foil in your baking tray and make a loose nest. Place the joint over 2 or 3 star anise and a tablespoon of water. Wrap the joint loosely in aluminium foil and roast for 20 mins per pound. Remove the gammon from the oven.
- Turn up the oven temperature to 220c (200c fan) Open the foil, remove the skin from the fat and score diagonals in the fat. Put a clove within each diagonal. Sprinkle the dry mustard over the entire joint and pour over the honey, Return the joint to the hotter oven. Baste the entire joint after 15 minutes.
- After 30 mins remove the joint to rest in a warm place (under the foil and several tea towels and towels) for another 30 mins.
- Add the tamarind to the juices and stir. Adjust the seasoning and pour off the juices to an ovenproof dish. Add the fresh pineapple (peeled and cored) and turn over in the sauce so that each piece is coated in with the sauce. Bake at 220c (200c fan) for 15 minutes. *Meanwhile prepare your vegetables.
- After 15 mins remove the pineapple and sauce from the oven. Pour off the sauce to a fat and lean gravy boat and place the sauce and the braised pineapple in a warm place until the dish is ready to serve. The meat and the sauce can be kept warm for quite a while and won’t spoil.
*We’d recommend mashed potatoes, runner beans and broccoli.